Monday, March 24, 2008
Andernos Les Bains, France
The next few days were spent in Andernos Les Bains with my conversation partner Serge and his wife Françoise. I’ve told you about Serge in an earlier post (in French.) When Serge was stationed with the military in this area, they searched for a place to live. When he and Françoise toured Andernos, they fell in love with the little village and decided to make it their home. With some luck, they found the perfect house and have been there for 6 years and hope to never leave!
Now that their daughter Anne is attending medical school in Bordeaux, they have to focus their attentions on their beloved dog, Socrates. Socrates is as intelligent as his namesake. Several mornings we took him for a walk to do his business. He knows the route by heart. He’s so well trained, Serge doesn’t need a leash because Socrates obeys voice commands. But in reality, this golden retriever is so well behaved he doesn’t need much discipline.
This time I found another new seafood treat, les huîtres, or oysters. Serge and Françoise took me to a nice restaurant called l’Esquirey located right on the bay. I had a dish of « les fruits de mer farcis » stuffed fruits of the sea, namely oysters, muscles and clams. They were filled with herbs and very tasty. My mouth waters just thinking about it! How fortunate they are to live so close to great, fresh treats from the sea.
Andernos is located more or less in the middle of the bay of Arcachon. During the day the tide is out, leaving lots of pinasses (old wooden fishing boats) stranded on mucky land. When the tide is in, it’s a perfect beach for families with small children as the water is shallow and they can play without fear of it becoming too deep.
Serge and Socrates took me to the northern tip of Arcachon Bay, Cap Ferret. Again, I was so impressed with lovely beaches of France on the Atlantic. Dotted all along the coast of France are the remains of German gun turrets that were meant to protect from ally invasion during WWII. Now they serve as canvas for graffiti artists.
I climbed the Cap Ferret lighthouse with “Mr. Bicycle” himself who is in such good shape he could have run up the stairs four times to my one! All the huffing and puffing was worth it! The view of the bay was spectacular. From here I could look across to Arcachon and see the steeple of the Chapelle very close to Fabienne’s house. Coucou Fabienne! Also I could see the Dune du Pyla and just how long and high it stretches along the coast.
In Bordeaux, I saw Anne’s apartment where she stays while attending school. We walked to her favorite Salon de Thé for a treat and then to a giant bookstore, Mollat. This is where Serge likes to spend time browsing the English language novel section. The students also buy their text books here. It was a busy place! I bought myself an Adventures of Tin Tin book. It’s a comic strip that was written in the 1920s by Hergé ( RG in French, Remi Georges) from Belgium.
Serge and I also visited a Carrefour which is like our Super Walmart only with appliances and electronics. Here we walked up and down the aisles comparing items and prices to what we have and don’t have in the US. For the most part, things were the same or slightly more expensive. But many things were unique to France with no comparison. I also learned that the French call tall size refrigerators "frigo americain" American fridge. Their refrigerators are smaller and don't have a freezer compartment.
I got up early Saturday to catch the train back to Paris where I was meeting my husband for a few days before we went back to the States. Serge made sure I was on the right platform and he even put me in the right seat on the train where we said good bye. Then he stood outside the window until the train left acting like he was crying! I think he’s watched too many old movies! I would have been sad to say goodbye, but I just know I will see him again! Hopefully in New Mexico.
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