Two Days in Paris

The last two days in France were spent in Paris. This was my third stay in Paris. I enjoyed the first two, but I really liked this trip because this time I was with my husband Jon. He is a bold, non French speaking adventurer. This attitude has helped him visit famous cities all over the world. This time I did the more traditional tourist things that I had avoided previously. We stood in line for 45 minutes to take an elevator up to the top of the Eiffel Tower. It is cliché, but who cares? It is such an amazing structure, it has to be experienced! Next, we took a boat tour on the Seine, also a typical tourist thing to do. I loved it. The British English recording that explained what we were seeing was so over the top with enthusiasm it made us laugh. The young female French tour guide barked out instructions in an impressive four languages. When we finished the tour, we pulled to the dock at 7:00 pm just in time for the Eiffel Tower light show. The 75 or so Japanese tourists on the boat gasped and then, “ewwwwed and ahhhhhhhed” over the sight. It was stunning. We walked across the bridge to get a better view of the Eiffel Tower. This was challenging because tourists are bombarded by young 'foreign' people trying to sell Eiffel Tower key chains or beg for money. The females are the beggars. They first ask you if you speak English, if so, they shove a typed card with a sob story on it and ask for money. Feeling like heartless Republicans,we say non merci. We had lots of practice saying no because we were constantly approached. It’s so well organized I’m sure it’s a big money making venture for someone. Vive entrepreneurism! However, I wonder if the young women are doing this freely. I wonder if they are penalized for not making a certain quota of money each day. I wonder about the nature of whoever collects the money from the young women. Are they cruel?

Despite my wonderings, we didn’t give them any money just the same.

We ended our first Paris evening having dinner at a Chinese restaurant. We did this just because I thought it was totally ridiculous to eat Chinese food in Paris. I like being ridiculous.





The next day was Sunday so we went to church at a little place called Notre Dame. Actually, we were there as tourists and I felt like I was intruding because they were having a Sunday morning service and taking communion while folks like me were walking around gawking. So we sat down on the dusty rush seated chairs they use instead of pews and waited for the service to finish. It is a glorious cathedral. Its treasures museum was amazing. The Virgin Mary has a lot of jeweled crowns waiting for her there. How will she decide which one to wear?

We saw where Marie Antoinette spent her last couple of months before she was guillotined. There were huge lists of names, ages and professions of people who were beheaded during the revolution, including some of the very people who began passing judgment on others.








We spent an unusually warm February afternoon walking along the Seine with all the other Parisians. We looked at the ancient magazines and books of some of the ‘green box’ vendors that line the Seine.








We had a nice lunch at a Bistro across the street from Notre Dame and a late dinner at a bistro near a subway entrance where I took this photo. I had a salmon crepe. It made me miss the yummy seafood I’d had in the South West a few days before.








I like Paris. There is an endless list of things to do. I’ve just scratched the surface. I will go back and do some more scratching, hopefully soon.

Andernos Les Bains, France

The next few days were spent in Andernos Les Bains with my conversation partner Serge and his wife Françoise. I’ve told you about Serge in an earlier post (in French.) When Serge was stationed with the military in this area, they searched for a place to live. When he and Françoise toured Andernos, they fell in love with the little village and decided to make it their home. With some luck, they found the perfect house and have been there for 6 years and hope to never leave!

Now that their daughter Anne is attending medical school in Bordeaux, they have to focus their attentions on their beloved dog, Socrates. Socrates is as intelligent as his namesake. Several mornings we took him for a walk to do his business. He knows the route by heart. He’s so well trained, Serge doesn’t need a leash because Socrates obeys voice commands. But in reality, this golden retriever is so well behaved he doesn’t need much discipline.










This time I found another new seafood treat, les huîtres, or oysters. Serge and Françoise took me to a nice restaurant called l’Esquirey located right on the bay. I had a dish of « les fruits de mer farcis » stuffed fruits of the sea, namely oysters, muscles and clams. They were filled with herbs and very tasty. My mouth waters just thinking about it! How fortunate they are to live so close to great, fresh treats from the sea.






Andernos is located more or less in the middle of the bay of Arcachon. During the day the tide is out, leaving lots of pinasses (old wooden fishing boats) stranded on mucky land. When the tide is in, it’s a perfect beach for families with small children as the water is shallow and they can play without fear of it becoming too deep.




Serge and Socrates took me to the northern tip of Arcachon Bay, Cap Ferret. Again, I was so impressed with lovely beaches of France on the Atlantic. Dotted all along the coast of France are the remains of German gun turrets that were meant to protect from ally invasion during WWII. Now they serve as canvas for graffiti artists.










I climbed the Cap Ferret lighthouse with “Mr. Bicycle” himself who is in such good shape he could have run up the stairs four times to my one! All the huffing and puffing was worth it! The view of the bay was spectacular. From here I could look across to Arcachon and see the steeple of the Chapelle very close to Fabienne’s house. Coucou Fabienne! Also I could see the Dune du Pyla and just how long and high it stretches along the coast.














In Bordeaux, I saw Anne’s apartment where she stays while attending school. We walked to her favorite Salon de Thé for a treat and then to a giant bookstore, Mollat. This is where Serge likes to spend time browsing the English language novel section. The students also buy their text books here. It was a busy place! I bought myself an Adventures of Tin Tin book. It’s a comic strip that was written in the 1920s by Hergé ( RG in French, Remi Georges) from Belgium.

Serge and I also visited a Carrefour which is like our Super Walmart only with appliances and electronics. Here we walked up and down the aisles comparing items and prices to what we have and don’t have in the US. For the most part, things were the same or slightly more expensive. But many things were unique to France with no comparison. I also learned that the French call tall size refrigerators "frigo americain" American fridge. Their refrigerators are smaller and don't have a freezer compartment.

I got up early Saturday to catch the train back to Paris where I was meeting my husband for a few days before we went back to the States. Serge made sure I was on the right platform and he even put me in the right seat on the train where we said good bye. Then he stood outside the window until the train left acting like he was crying! I think he’s watched too many old movies! I would have been sad to say goodbye, but I just know I will see him again! Hopefully in New Mexico.

Arcachon, France

My second week in France started with a train ride to southwestern city of Bordeaux. I was met at the station by Fabienne. Up until this moment, we had only spoken together via the internet. So it was wonderful to meet her in person. She took me to a few of her favorite shops in Bordeaux and then introduced me to a colorful treat, macaroons (macarons in French.) It is a cookie that consists mainly of almond paste according to my dictionary. But to me they were just plain yummy!




I stayed with Fabienne and her family for 3 days in Arcachon. Arcachon is a city located on the southern tip of le Bassin d’Arcachon, Arcachon Bay in English. She and her husband are pharmacists and live above there pharmacy. It’s an ideal location only two blocks from the water! We also climbed the Dune of Pyla. It’s a huge, naturally created mountain of sand next to the sea. Going up was really hard work, but going down was a joy as you could run fast with no fear of falling because the sand acted as a shock absorber, keeping your feet steady! We also climbed the Belvedere Tower that was made by a fellow named Gustave Eiffel. From this observation tower you can see the city of Arcachon as well as the bay.



While I was visiting Fabienne, I fell in love with coquille Saint Jacques. We call them scallops in English. I’ve had scallops before, but not fresh off the boat and bought in the shell! They are simply delicious. I’ve always admired the way the French go grocery shopping. They have little markets with vendors selling fruit and vegetables, flowers, meats, fish, cheeses and pastries. There are even people selling prepared Moroccan and Asian dishes. I guess it’s the French version of ‘fast food.’ It’s neighborhood centered and friendly. I wish we had something similar in the U.S.








One night we went out for dinner at a nice restaurant called l’Encoche. Since I was in love with coquille St. Jacques, I ordered them again. I had really wonderful food in France. The second picture is Fabienne and her husband Laurent. They are really wonderful and lots of fun!

Rouen France

Dreams really do come true. I went to France last month for two weeks. I spent the first week in Rouen, France. It’s located in Normandy and is famous for several things, mainly the place where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake. There is a chapel dedicated to Jeanne d’Arc near the place were she was killed.

Rouen is a charming old city. There are many half timber buildings in the old part of the town. There is a university there so students keep the place youthful and lively. The Notre Dame Cathedral in Rouen is also very famous. Monet painted several famous paintings of the front façade, demonstrating the changes in the natural lighting at different parts of the day. I liked this old cathedral for several reasons. The first is inside there are the tombs of several Dukes of Normandy; Rollo and Richard the Lionhearted to name a few. My husband’s family traces their genealogy to Rollo and William the Conqueror . So it was a bit like visiting the grave of a relative. Also, they are restoring many of the statues of saints and prophets that were on the outside of the building. They brought the old ones into the cathedral so people could get a close up look at them. It was amazing to see what time and environment had done to the ancient carved stone ‘people.’ Lastly, on the outside of the building you can still see the effects of war. Rouen was a battle ground during the Second World War. The building is pocked and scarred by gun battles. Yet she still stands firm in the heart of the city, to eventually outlive us all.

Rouen is famous for its lovely ceramics. I was seduced by these shops myself. I have a lovely plate with a rooster for my collection. But, next time I visit and I hope it’s soon, I will buy a few more things I regret not getting while I was there!

Since we were there for Valentine’s Day, we celebrated with an 8 course French meal at the La Couronne ( the crown in French.) It is supposed to be the oldest restaurant in France. Who am I to judge? The food was superb. However, the meal lasted 4 hours. I’m afraid my husband and I have been married too long to have interesting conversation for 4 continuous hours! :-)

Next time... le Bassin d'Arcachon